Walk into the former Kingdom of Lo: a high, dry, red-cliffed desert north of the Himalaya with cave dwellings, ancient monasteries and the walled city of Lo Manthang. Restricted area: licensed guide and agency required.
The route
Upper Mustang is unlike anywhere else in Nepal. North of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, the land turns into a high, dry desert of red and ochre cliffs, cave dwellings and whitewashed villages. At its heart is Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the old Kingdom of Lo, where the culture is closer to Tibet than to Kathmandu.
Travellers interested in culture, history and photography, and trekkers who want something unusual. It is also one of the few treks that is good in monsoon.
Fly or drive from Pokhara to Jomsom, then walk up the Kali Gandaki to Kagbeni, where the restricted area starts. The trail heads north through Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang, crossing small passes around 3,800–4,000 m.
Lo Manthang deserves at least a full day. Visit Thubchen and Jampa monasteries, wander the old alleys and take a jeep or horse to the Chhoser caves. Return by the eastern route via Ghar Gompa and Dhakmar.
March to November. Upper Mustang is in a rain shadow, so June to August is often dry and green while the rest of Nepal is soaked. Winter is very cold and many locals move south.
Moderate. There are no high passes, but the walking is at 3,500–4,000 m in dry, dusty and very windy conditions, especially after midday.
Upper Mustang is a restricted area. The Nepal Tourism Board lists the permit at US$50 per person per day. For many years the fee was US$500 for the first ten days, and some agencies still quote it like that, so ask yours how it is being charged now. You also need ACAP (NPR 3,000).
This makes Upper Mustang one of the most expensive treks in Nepal. Lodges are more expensive than in lower areas. The price on this page is a typical starting price; message us for a quote from our local guides.
Since March 2026 the Department of Immigration lets individual trekkers get restricted area permits, as long as they go through a registered agency with a licensed guide.
Most trips start in Pokhara. Spend a night in Lakeside before your Jomsom flight, which leaves early in the morning. Lazy Lads Backpackers Hostel is a great budget base for trekkers; see all Pokhara hostels.
Lodges are good and often family-run in traditional houses. Food is mostly Tibetan and Nepali: thukpa, momos and dal bhat.
Combine with the Annapurna Circuit, which passes Kagbeni.
Day by day
A 20-minute flight (or a long drive) to Jomsom, then up the windy Kali Gandaki to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. Permits are checked here.
Into the restricted area past Tangbe and Chhusang, with red cliffs and cave dwellings.
Over several passes with views back to Nilgiri.
Past chortens and long mani walls.
Through the longest mani wall in Mustang to Tsarang, with its old palace and monastery.
Arrive at the walled capital of Lo.
Visit Jampa and Thubchen monasteries and ride or walk to the Chhoser cave complex.
Return by the eastern route past red cliffs and one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal.
Back towards the south.
Continue south.
Walk down to Jomsom.
Morning flight or long bus ride to Lakeside.
Good to know
The Nepal Tourism Board lists the Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit at US$50 per person per day. For years it was sold as US$500 for 10 days, so ask your agency how the current rules are applied.
Since March 2026, solo trekkers can get the permit through a registered agency, with a licensed guide.
Yes. It is in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, so June to August is one of the best times to go.
Moderate. The altitude is about 3,500–4,000 m, and days are dusty, windy and exposed, but there is no high pass.
Yes. A jeep road runs to Lo Manthang, but trekkers can use quieter trails for much of the way.
A three-day Buddhist festival in Lo Manthang, usually in May, with masked dances. It is the busiest time to visit.
Ten to fourteen days from Pokhara.
Yes, many people do a jeep tour, but you still need the permit and a guide.
With permit, guide and transport, budgets usually start around US$1,500.
Most trips start in Pokhara. Lakeside hostels like Lazy Lads Backpackers Hostel are great before and after.
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